The Summit-Day Crisis

The Climb

This flow follows the May 10 ascent from a difficult departure through delays on the ridge to the storm-struck descent.

increasing

Bearing strength in each event

decreasing

A Windbound Camp A Windbound Camp from "The Climb". A Windbound Camp Uncertain Weather At Camp IV, violent winds batter tents and make the planned midnight departure doubtful.

A Windbound Camp from "The Climb". A Windbound Camp Uncertain Weather At Camp IV, violent winds batter tents and make the planned midnight departure doubtful.

A Windbound Camp Uncertain Weather At Camp IV, violent winds batter tents and make the planned midnight departure doubtful. Climbers debate whether the storm’s pause will last. Decision to Go When the wind subsides, the leaders proceed, despite lingering concern that calm skies do not guarantee stable weather.

Crowded Ascent Crowded Ascent from "The Climb". Crowded Ascent Bottleneck The two commercial teams and Taiwanese climbers converge on the route.

Crowded Ascent Bottleneck The two commercial teams and Taiwanese climbers converge on the route. Expected advance rope work has not been completed, creating waits at exposed sections. Lost Time The queue consumes energy and oxygen while the summit window advances, turning delays into a direct threat to safe descent.

Late Summit Arrivals Late Summit Arrivals from "The Climb". Late Summit Arrivals Success Under Pressure Anatoli Boukreev reaches the summit early, followed by a gradual stream of climbers.

Late Summit Arrivals from "The Climb". Late Summit Arrivals Success Under Pressure Anatoli Boukreev reaches the summit early, followed by a gradual stream of climbers.

Late Summit Arrivals Success Under Pressure Anatoli Boukreev reaches the summit early, followed by a gradual stream of climbers. The remaining clients continue arriving well into the afternoon. A Dangerous Pause Celebration and photographs extend the summit stop, reducing daylight and consuming oxygen needed for the descent.

The Turn Toward Descent The Turn Toward Descent from "The Climb". The Turn Toward Descent Unfinished Work The Hillary Step and nearby ropes complicate movement as climbers begin descending.

The Turn Toward Descent from "The Climb". The Turn Toward Descent Unfinished Work The Hillary Step and nearby ropes complicate movement as climbers begin descending.

The Turn Toward Descent Unfinished Work The Hillary Step and nearby ropes complicate movement as climbers begin descending. Some members are already short of oxygen or physically depleted. Storm Signs Wind and cloud increase while the teams remain high. The situation shifts from a difficult summit day toward an urgent survival problem.

Whiteout on the Col Whiteout on the Col from "The Climb". Whiteout on the Col Disorientation A blizzard erases camp lights and familiar terrain.

Whiteout on the Col Disorientation A blizzard erases camp lights and familiar terrain. Climbers become separated, lose their bearings, and gather in a huddle near the Kangshung Face. Survival With oxygen depleted and temperatures falling, individuals try to keep one another awake until brief visibility and a guide’s rescue effort offer a way back.

afternoon of May 9, 1996

early morning of May 10, 1996

May 10, 1996, 1:07–2:30 P.M.

afternoon of May 10, 1996

night of May 10–11, 1996